Where to stay in the Scottish Highlands

The Scottish Highlands cover a vast area of mountains, glens, lochs and coastline in the north and west of Scotland, and are among the most dramatic landscapes in Europe. Distances are long and roads often single-track, so the key to a good trip is choosing a few well-placed bases rather than trying to see everything from one. This guide covers the main hubs and the areas around them.

Inverness

Inverness, on the River Ness where it meets the Moray Firth, is the main city of the Highlands and the natural gateway to the north. It has a compact centre with a castle above the river, the Victorian Market and a riverside walk to the Ness Islands. From here, Loch Ness, the long, deep loch famous for its legendary monster, begins just to the south-west, with Urquhart Castle standing on its shore. The battlefield of Culloden, site of the last pitched battle on British soil in 1746, is a short drive east. Inverness is also the start and end point of the North Coast 500, a popular touring route around the northern Highlands. With an airport and railway station, it is the most practical first base; browse Inverness listings.

Aviemore and the Cairngorms

Aviemore sits in the heart of the Cairngorms National Park, the largest national park in the United Kingdom. It is the Highlands' main outdoor activity centre, with walking, cycling, wildlife watching and, in winter, skiing on Cairn Gorm. The Strathspey Railway, a heritage steam line, runs from Aviemore, and the Cairngorm Reindeer Centre near Glenmore is home to Britain's only free-ranging reindeer herd. Loch Morlich, with its sandy beach beneath the mountains, is a favourite spot. The surrounding Speyside area is also known for its whisky distilleries. Aviemore is on the main railway line between Perth and Inverness; see Aviemore stays.

Fort William and Lochaber

Fort William, at the head of Loch Linnhe, calls itself the Outdoor Capital of the UK. It sits at the foot of Ben Nevis, the highest mountain in the British Isles, and at the end of the West Highland Way, a long-distance trail from Milngavie near Glasgow. The Great Glen Way also begins here, heading north-east to Inverness. Glen Nevis is a beautiful valley for walking even if you do not plan to climb the Ben. West of Fort William, the Glenfinnan Viaduct, known to many from the Harry Potter films, carries the West Highland Line towards Mallaig, and steam trains run on the route in the summer season. See Fort William listings.

Glencoe

South of Fort William, Glencoe is one of the most famous and atmospheric glens in Scotland, with steep mountains rising straight from the valley floor. It is remembered for the massacre of 1692, and the National Trust for Scotland runs a visitor centre in the glen. The village of Glencoe and nearby Ballachulish have small hotels, inns and guest houses that make a superb base for walkers and photographers.

The west coast and the Isle of Skye

The Isle of Skye, reached by the bridge at Kyle of Lochalsh or by ferry from Mallaig, is known for the Cuillin mountains, the Old Man of Storr and the Quiraing. It is extremely popular in summer, and accommodation on the island fills up months ahead, so if Skye is part of your plan, book it first and build the rest of the trip around it. The mainland west coast, with places such as Plockton and Ullapool, is quieter and every bit as beautiful.

When to go

Late spring and early summer bring long daylight hours, and May and June are often relatively dry. July and August are the busiest months. Highland midges, tiny biting insects, can be troublesome in summer, particularly on still, damp evenings, so pack repellent. Autumn colours are wonderful, and winter brings snow to the mountains, short days and, on clear nights, a chance of seeing the northern lights. Mountain weather can change very quickly at any time of year, so plan walks carefully.

Getting there and around

Inverness has an airport with flights from around the UK, and trains run from Edinburgh and Glasgow via Perth. The Caledonian Sleeper runs overnight from London Euston to destinations including Inverness, Aberdeen and Fort William, which is a memorable way to arrive; see our guide to travelling the UK by train. A car gives the most flexibility, but drive carefully on single-track roads and use passing places courteously.

Planning a route

A classic first-time loop runs from Edinburgh or Glasgow up through Glencoe to Fort William, along the Great Glen past Loch Ness to Inverness, and back south through Aviemore and the Cairngorms. Allow at least a week if you can, and resist the temptation to drive long distances every day, because the joy of the Highlands is in stopping at viewpoints, short walks and small villages along the way. Fill up with fuel when you have the chance in remote areas.

Choosing where to stay

Expect everything from Victorian hotels to friendly B&Bs, farmhouse guest houses and walkers' inns. In remote areas, places to eat can be far apart, so ask your hosts whether they serve evening meals. Start in Edinburgh if you are coming from the south, and compare the Highlands with England's own mountains in our Lake District guide.